You don’t have to convert to disc brakes to get superior stopping power.

Stop it. And the sooner the better. That’s what the little pedal to the left of the accelerator is for. But brakes, being a serviceable system, wear out, and when they go, the results can be spectacular.

Take what was left of the brakes on our “Collateral Damage” ’66 coupe. The pedal went to the floor. That’s all we knew until we dove into the system. Then we discovered that while the fronts had been serviced recently, the rears were left to dissolve into fine granules. All the friction material was long gone, and the grinding metal had ground the drums down to the point that the wheel cylinder pistons finally blew right out, emptying the hydraulic lines and bringing on total, catastrophic brake failure.

The fix was a STAGE III Brake system from Muscle Car Brakes (877-606-7867;  www.musclecarbrakes.com). The system uses premium-quality components throughout, including drums made from virgin-ore metal, not the grab bag of alloys in off-shore parts made of recycled material. Drums are treated at minus 300 degrees Fahrenheit, which changes the metal’s grain and gives them much greater stopping power. Wheel cylinders are larger than stock, providing improved stopping power and easier pedal effort, and brake shoes have a semi-ceramic material bonded – not riveted – to them for high friction, fade resistance, and long life. Muscle Car Brakes is the only manufacturer in North America to use ceramic friction material on drum brake shoes. The point is that you’re getting disc brake performance without the high cost and loss of originality.

We’re working on our humble six-cylinder driver, but the work we’re doing applies to V8 cars, too. Our Mustang’s small 9-inch drums use bonded friction material, increasing the surface area of each shoe by 28 percent compared to riveted shoes. Some Mustangs, such as big-block cars with larger brakes, may use riveted shoes.

Muscle Car Brakes' Stage III system is a total package that provides all-new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, hoses, and hardware. Kits we’ve used in the past almost always leave something out. This one was complete.

Shafer's Classic Reproductions provided the CNC-bent hydraulic lines.

Our in-house ’66 lived up to its nickname “Collateral Damage,” as there’s always something else wrong. This month’s episode was the wheel locks, apparently torqued down by Charles Atlas and requiring a torch to get three of the four off. The last one (isn’t there one in every job?) wouldn’t budge without the torch and a big hammer and chisel. 

With the wheels off and the car supported at all four corners by jackstands, the drums are removed by first taking off the wheel bearing cotter pin, nut, and washer.  

Disassembly begins by removing the hold-down springs (one on each side). Hold the pin from turning from the rear of the backing plate, push the retainer down slightly, and rotate 90 degrees. Pliers will work, or you can buy a specific tool inexpensively at most auto parts stores. Next, remove the big springs up top from the anchor pin with Vise-Grips (hillbilly style) or a specific brake tool (pro style). With the springs off, remove the self-adjusting cable from the anchor pin, too. Spread the shoes at the top, and they’ll come off. Remove the two bolts on the wheel cylinder, and it drops off.

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